13/11/2026

FRIDAY | NOV 13, 2026

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Keeping art of making tanjak alive o Terengganu craftsman preserves traditional designs while passing skill to next generation

HULU TERENGGANU: The tradition of wearing the tanjak , also known as the tengkolok or dastar , among Malay men is believed to have originated during the Malacca Sultanate before spreading to other states. Initially a simple piece of cloth wrapped around the head for protection, the tanjak gradually evolved into an intricate headpiece with elaborate folds and symbolic meanings. Its distinctive designs can reflect the wearer’s personality, identity, social standing, rank and place of origin. For Terengganu tanjak maker Muhammad Ali Yusof, crafting the traditional headgear requires more than technical skill. It demands a thorough understanding of Malay customs and protocols, as each headpiece tells a story about the person wearing it. According to the Discovery Terengganu portal, an initiative by the private sector and the Terengganu Tourism Department, the tradition of wearing the tanjak in the state is believed to date back to the early Terengganu Sultanate in the 18th century. More than a decorative headpiece, it symbolised status, authority and adherence to the customs and traditions of the Terengganu Malay royal institution. Muhammad Ali, 52, began learning the craft in 2014. He said making tanjak carries a significant responsibility to preserve this distinctive Malay heritage, particularly as he had been entrusted with making them for the Sultan of Terengganu Sultan Mizan Zainal Abidin and members of the royal family. His interest began while he was a member of Kumpulan Dendang Anak, a traditional music group whose members frequently perform in Malay

attire, including the tanjak . Muhammad Ali said tanjak making had two main categories – traditional designs, which follow established shapes and specifications, and contemporary creations, which give makers greater freedom to explore their own designs. “The time taken to make each piece varies according to its design. A traditional tanjak can usually be completed in about 30 minutes, while a contemporary creation may take up to half a day or even longer, depending on its complexity. “Most of the tanjak I make use songket fabric, either full songket or semi- songket material that combines songket with ordinary fabric, depending on the design and customer requirements,” he said when met recently at Karya Jemari Kayangan in Kampung Gaung Tengah, Kuala Berang. Terengganu has eight basic traditional tanjak designs, each with its own shape and identity. They are Belalai Gajah , worn by the Sultan, Anak Belalai Gajah , worn by the Tengku Mahkota or Crown Prince, Bija Diraja , designated for the Sultan’s advisers, Bendahara , worn by the Bendahara or chief minister, Laksamana , worn by the Laksamana or admiral, Dagang Sakit Dirantau , worn by Terengganu dignitaries, and Temalong Budu and Lang Melayang , worn by the public. “The Laksamana is among the most sought-after designs in Terengganu, followed by the Bendahara , which is smaller and looks neat when worn.” Muhammad Ali said customers also bought tanjak for investiture ceremonies, at which they receive medals or state honours. The design chosen for such occasions must conform to the relevant customs and protocols. “Some customers also buy tanjak

Muhammad Ali (left) said the craft requires continuous learning and practice, as well as an understanding of traditional designs. – BERNAMAPIC

culture to ensure that this heritage lives on,” he said. He is also teaching the craft to his 22-year-old son, Muhammad Mustaffa Matin, in the hope of passing it on to the next generation. “I am grateful that my second son has shown an interest in continuing the family legacy of making tanjak . The craft requires continuous learning and practice, as well as an understanding of traditional designs, precision in creating the folds and adherence to customs and protocols. “Preserving the art of tanjak making is not merely about sustaining a business. “It is also about ensuring that a heritage reflecting the identity and pride of the Malay community remains recognised, appreciated and passed down to future generations,” he said.

as personal collectibles or display pieces for their homes, attracted by the uniqueness of the designs and the heritage value embodied in each handcrafted piece. “The selling price ranges from RM100 to RM150 per piece, depending on the materials used, including the type of songket fabric, which determines the value of each tanjak ,” he said. He also offers other traditional Malay attire, including Baju Melayu , baju layang, baju takwa , warrior outfits, trousers and shawls. Beyond his local customers, Muhammad Ali’s handcrafted pieces have attracted buyers from overseas, including Australia. “A customer bought one to wear at an event, showing that traditional Malay attire also has a place among the international community,”

he said. He added that foreign tourists often enquired about the tanjak he wore during exhibitions. Hoping to expand his overseas market, Muhammad Ali uses opportunities to meet foreign visitors, particularly at exhibitions and events at Kampung Budaya Terengganu, to introduce the headgear to a wider audience. Despite the business opportunities, he believes preserving tanjak -making requires support from both the government and the community if it is to continue appealing to the young generation. “If we do not take the initiative to promote our own heritage, it will be difficult to introduce it to the outside world. “We need to make wearing traditional Malay attire part of our