02/11/2025

ON SUNDAY November 2, 2025 theSunday Special XI

That enthusiasm is a reminder of why SHRSOH KDYH IROORZHG KLV MRXUQH\ IRU VR ORQJ ± WKHUH LV QRWKLQJ SHUIRUPDWLYH DERXW KLV SDVVLRQ ,W LV OLYHG LQ DQG VLQFHUH A philosophy of home E YHU\ H[FHOOHQW FXLVLQH KDV D SKLORVRSK\ 7KH -DSDQHVH KDYH UHVWUDLQW DQG LPSHU IHFWLRQ WKH )UHQFK KDYH VWUXFWXUH DQG HOHJDQFH 6R ZKDW GRHV 0DOD\VLD KDYH" “ %DODQFH ´ 6KHUVRQ VDLG ³5HDO EHDXWLIXO balance. We are a true melting pot. You FDQ ¿QG &KLQHVH 0DOD\ DQG ,QGLDQ IRRG DQ\ZKHUH DQ\WLPH DQG LW¶V DOO D̆ RUGDEOH 7KDW NLQG RI FXOLQDU\ HTXDOLW\ LV UDUH ´ N RZ DEURDG KH ¿QGV KLPVHOI WKLQNLQJ RI WKH VPDOO OX[XULHV RI KRPH “ %URFFROL LV RYHU 50 ZKHUH , DP 1DSD FDEEDJH LV RYHU 50 (YHQ ÀRXU is the price of a can of beer. You start to realise how blessed we are. Our produce, our street food, our accessibility – it’s SULFHOHVV ´ “ 0DOD\VLD UHDOO\ LV D IRRG KDYHQ 7KHUH¶V QRZKHUH HOVH OLNH LW ´ % ecause at its heart, Malaysian cuisine is QRW GH¿QHG E\ RQH WHFKQLTXH RU WUDGLWLRQ EXW E\ LWV RSHQQHVV WR HYROYH ± D FHOHEUD WLRQ RI FRQWUDVWV %ROG DQG VXEWOH UXVWLF DQG UH¿QHG IDPLOLDU DQG VXUSULVLQJ A true reflection of the people who VKDSH LW HYHU\ GD\ ZLWK HYHU\ GLVK WKDW tells a story. T KDW LV WKH EHDXW\ RI 0DOD\VLDQ ÀDYRXUV – not just in how they taste, but in how WKH\ OLYH

FURLVVDQW %XW ZH¶OO SD\ 50 IRU RQH ZKLOH ignoring a kuih WKDW FRVWV 50 DQG WDNHV WZLFH WKH H̆ RUW ´ KH VDLG His concern is not just about economics RU QRVWDOJLD EXW DERXW YDOXH Kuih , to him, represents craftsmanship, heritage and soul. “If we don’t make space for them, they’ll disappear. Kuih pelita, angku kuih, kuih lapis ± WKH\ ZRQ¶W EH DURXQG LQ WKH QH[W JHQHUDWLRQ XQOHVV ZH FKRRVH WR NHHS WKHP ´ When asked if there is an ingredient that XQORFNV KLV FUHDWLYLW\ KLV DQVZHU LV LQVWDQW “ Bunga kantan ´ KH VDLG “ , DEVROXWHO\ ORYH LW ,W¶V ÀRUDO YLEUDQW ,W PDNHV HYHU\WKLQJ WDVWH EHWWHU :KHWKHU LQ laksa ULFH RU VDODGV LW HOHYDWHV HYHU\WKLQJ LW WRXFKHV ´

Sometimes, it needs the right storytell LQJ )RU 6KHUVRQ HYHU\ GLVK KDV D VWRU\ DQG storytelling is as essential as salt. “It helps people understand the ‘why’. Whether you’re running a restaurant or VKDULQJ UHFLSHV RQOLQH VWRU\WHOOLQJ JLYHV your food meaning. It turns a plate into D MRXUQH\ ´ Forgotten heritage % etween today’s modern cooking and quick recipes, Sherson is determined to protect the legacy of kuih-muih – Malay sia’s delicate, colourful desserts, which he fears are in danger of being forgotten. “We’re in a time when food trends IURP DEURDG WDNH RYHU RXU ORFDO VFHQH And there’s nothing wrong with a good

Preserving local ingredients such as belacan, budu and bunga kantan .

I’ll make a big batch – enough for laksa, rendang, rempah udang, masak lemak nenas DQG VWLU IU\ GLVKHV 7KDW RQH H̆ RUW FDUULHV ÀDYRXU WKURXJK WKH PRQWK ´ There is no need for bells and whistles – just thoughtful timing, smart use of ingredients and a little planning. In a world where food content is often DERXW VSHHG DQG VSHFWDFOH 6KHUVRQ R̆ HUV something more grounded. His cooking, like his storytelling, is about connection. ,W LQYLWHV SHRSOH LQ DQG VRPHWLPHV WKDW connection becomes the most powerful part of the recipe. Each dish carries a story N RW DOO LQJUHGLHQWV KRZHYHU VKDUH WKH spotlight equally. While durian has fa mously captured global attention – both admiration and horror in equal measure – many other local treasures still wait quietly in the wings. For this, Sherson names ulam, budu, daun kesum and belacan as ingredients WKDW GHVHUYH PRUH ORYH 7KHLU FRPSOH[LW\ may not always be understood, but they are pillars of Malaysian cooking. “ (YHU\RQH WDONV DERXW GXULDQ ´ KH laughed. “It’s the first thing foreigners ask about. Meanwhile, other ingredients JHW RYHUVKDGRZHG %XW WKH\¶UH MXVW DV LPSRUWDQW LI QRW PRUH LQ GH¿QLQJ RXU FXOLQDU\ FKDUDFWHU ´ He sees potential not necessarily in H[SRUWLQJ WKHVH ÀDYRXUV WR WKH :HVW EXW in deepening appreciation within Asia. “ )HUPHQWHG ÀDYRXUV DUH XQGHUVWRRG across Southeast Asia. Our neighbours like Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam – they get it. I once brought belacan to Dubai for a laksa GHPR 7KH DXGLHQFH ORYHG LW 7KH ÀDYRXU LVQ¶W WKH SUREOHP 6RPHWLPHV LW MXVW QHHGV WKH ULJKW FRQWH[W ´

Who’s to say which version of sambal is correct? Our cuisine was born out of a social movement.”

The chef describes Malaysian cuisine as a celebration of balance – ľŏłŊÿÙϰũãŊϰľãżěãßλ